A stair stringer is the structural framework that supports your staircase. It's the diagonal beam that runs underneath or alongside the steps, holding up the weight of people walking on the stairs. Most staircases have at least two stringers—one on each side—though larger stairs may need a third stringer down the middle for additional support.
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Stringers come in different styles. The most common type is the "open stringer," where the steps are cut into the beam in a sawtooth pattern, leaving the sides visible. A "closed stringer" has sides that completely enclose the stairs, creating a cleaner look. The third type is a "housed stringer," which uses grooves or dadoes cut into the beam to hold the steps and risers in place.
Building codes across the United States have specific requirements for staircases. According to the International Building Code (IBC), stair stringers must support a live load of 40 pounds per square foot. The rise of each step (the height from one step to the next) must be between 7 and 7.75 inches, and the run (the depth of each step) must be at least 10 inches. These measurements ensure that stairs are safe and comfortable for people of different sizes to use.
The material you choose for your stringer affects both durability and cost. Pressure-treated lumber resists rot and insect damage, making it popular for outdoor stairs. Interior stairs often use standard lumber like 2x10 or 2x12 boards. Some people choose engineered lumber or composite materials for increased strength and longevity, though these cost more upfront.
Practical Takeaway: Before you start building, understand what type of stringer suits your project. Measure the total rise (floor-to-floor height) and planned run to calculate how many steps you'll need. This determines your stringer dimensions and material requirements.
Building a stair stringer requires both specialized and standard tools. A framing square is essential—it's an L-shaped ruler that helps you mark the precise angles for step cutouts. You'll also need a circular saw or hand saw to cut the stringer board and the individual steps. A carpenter's level ensures your finished stairs are truly level and not tilted. A tape measure, pencil, and clamps round out the basic toolkit. Many people rent or borrow expensive tools rather than buy them, which saves money on a one-time project.
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Material selection depends on whether you're building interior or exterior stairs. For outdoor projects, pressure-treated lumber rated for ground contact offers the best rot resistance. Common dimensions are 2x10, 2x12, or even doubled 2x12 boards for wider staircases. A typical residential stair might use two stringers made from 2x12 boards, each about 12 to 16 feet long depending on the number of steps. Interior stairs can use standard pine or fir lumber, which costs less than treated wood.
For step materials, you have several options. Solid wood steps provide a traditional look but require regular maintenance if used outdoors. Metal treads offer durability and slip resistance, particularly useful for high-traffic areas or outdoor applications. Composite materials resist weathering and fading. Some builders use individual step boards secured to the stringers, while others use a continuous surface applied over the stringers.
The fastening materials matter for safety and longevity. Exterior stairs need stainless steel or galvanized bolts and fasteners that won't rust. Interior stairs can use standard wood screws or bolts. You'll need concrete anchors if your stairs connect to concrete foundations. The number of fasteners required depends on local building codes, but generally, stringers need bolting or heavy screwing at the top and bottom connections.
Practical Takeaway: Create a complete materials list before purchasing anything. Calculate board footage needed by multiplying the number of stringers by their length. Add 10 percent extra for mistakes or waste. Compare prices at different suppliers—lumber yards often beat big-box stores on bulk purchases.
Accurate measurements are the foundation of safe, functional stairs. Start by measuring the total rise—the vertical distance from the bottom floor to the top floor. Use a level and measuring tape, checking at multiple points since floors aren't always perfectly level. Divide the total rise by your desired step height (typically 7 to 7.5 inches) to determine how many steps you need. For example, if your total rise is 120 inches, dividing by 7.5 inches gives you 16 steps.
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Once you know the number of steps, calculate the total run—the horizontal distance your stairs will cover. Multiply the number of steps minus one by your planned tread depth (usually 10 to 11 inches). If you have 16 steps with 10-inch treads, the total run is 150 inches, or 12.5 feet. This measurement determines how much floor space your staircase occupies.
The stringer length is found using the Pythagorean theorem: the stringer is the hypotenuse of a right triangle where the rise and run are the other two sides. For the example above (120-inch rise, 150-inch run), the stringer length would be approximately 192 inches, or 16 feet. This is the minimum board length you'll need, with extra added for connections at top and bottom.
Layout involves marking the step cutouts on your stringer board. Using a framing square, mark a line from the corner of the square at the rise measurement (7.5 inches) and another at the run measurement (10 inches). This creates your step pattern. Slide the square along the board, marking each step cutout in sequence. Be precise with your measurements—even small errors compound across multiple steps, creating uneven stairs that feel uncomfortable and unsafe to use.
Practical Takeaway: Write down all calculations on paper before cutting anything. Double-check every measurement. Many builders measure three times and cut once. A simple mistake in layout costs money in wasted lumber and can create safety hazards.
Cutting stringers is where measurement precision becomes critical. After marking your step pattern with the framing square, you have two cutting options. A circular saw works well for most straight cuts along the tread and riser. For the inside corners where steps meet, you may need to finish cuts with a hand saw or reciprocating saw to avoid splintering. Always wear eye protection and hearing protection when cutting—sawdust and noise are constant when working with lumber.
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Cut slowly and deliberately. Rush cutting leads to mistakes that either waste the board or create unsafe steps. If using a circular saw, set the blade depth to cut completely through the board without going too deep. Guide the saw along your marked lines, keeping the blade perpendicular to the board. After cutting, use sandpaper to smooth any rough edges, especially the step surfaces where people will walk. Rough edges splinter easily and create safety hazards.
For housed stringers, the cutting process is different. Instead of removing wedge-shaped pieces, you cut grooves or dados into the top edge of the stringer to hold the steps. This requires a router or dado blade on a table saw—equipment many homeowners don't have. Many DIYers choose open stringers for this reason, even though closed stringers look more finished.
After cutting, inspect your stringer for defects. Check that the steps are relatively consistent in size—variations of more than a quarter inch should be corrected if possible. Verify that the top and bottom of the stringer are square and will sit flush against the upper and lower landing surfaces. If building outdoor stairs, apply a wood sealant or stain to the cut surfaces immediately, before the wood has time to absorb moisture and begin rotting.
Practical Takeaway: If you're uncomfortable with cutting precise angles, many lumberyards offer cutting services for a small fee. It costs more but ensures your stringers are cut accurately. For high-deck stairs or situations where mistakes are expensive, professional cutting pays for itself through improved safety and durability.
Proper installation determines whether your stairs are safe or become a hazard. The bottom of each stringer must sit on a solid surface—either concrete, a landing, or a footer that prevents movement or settling.
This guide is for general information only and is not medical, financial, legal, or other professional advice. For decisions specific to your situation, consult a qualified professional. See our Editorial Policy.