A stripped bolt is one where the threads—the spiral grooves that let it grip and tighten—have been damaged or worn away. When threads strip, the bolt spins freely without holding anything in place. This is a frustrating problem, but it's also one with several practical fixes. Which solution works best depends on the bolt's size, location, material, and how soon you need it fixed.
Stripping typically happens in three ways:
Understanding the cause helps you choose the right fix and prevent it from happening again.
The simplest fix: replace the stripped bolt with the next size up. If your bolt is M8 (8 millimeters), switch to M10. Drill out the hole to match the new bolt's diameter, and you're done.
When this works best: The hole's location allows a slightly larger fastener without structural or functional problems.
Drawback: Not always possible if space is tight or if a larger bolt would interfere with surrounding parts.
A threaded insert is a small, coiled metal sleeve that creates brand-new threads inside the stripped hole. You drill out the damaged hole to a specific size, tap new threads, then screw in the insert. The bolt then threads into the insert.
Why people choose this: It restores the original bolt size and works in tight spaces. It's durable and reusable if the bolt needs replacement later.
Skill level: Requires a drill, the correct tap size, and some precision. Many hardware stores sell helicoil kits with instructions for specific bolt sizes.
For bolts that are slightly loose (not fully stripped), applying a thread-locking compound can help. These are adhesives designed to secure bolts and prevent them from backing out due to vibration.
Reality check: This is a Band-Aid, not a permanent fix for a truly stripped bolt. It may work temporarily if the stripping is minor, but won't restore lost threads.
This old-school trick works for some situations: remove the bolt, insert wooden toothpicks or matchsticks into the hole, break them off flush, then reinstall the bolt. The wood fills gaps and gives the bolt more grip.
When it helps: Small stripped holes in wood or soft materials.
Limitation: It's temporary and won't work on metal or in structural applications.
Similar to the helicoil method, but instead of installing an insert, you simply drill to a larger size and retap with larger threads.
Trade-off: You're committed to using a larger bolt permanently. If the hole is already near its size limit, this may not be an option.
| Solution | Permanence | Difficulty | Best For | Cost |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Larger bolt | Permanent | Easy | Holes with room to enlarge | Low |
| Helicoil insert | Permanent | Moderate | Restoring original size in tight spaces | Low–Moderate |
| Thread-locker | Temporary | Very easy | Minor looseness, emergency hold | Low |
| Wooden plug | Temporary | Easy | Soft materials, quick fixes | Very low |
| Drill & tap larger | Permanent | Moderate | When you accept a bigger bolt | Low |
Material of the component: Metal, plastic, or wood each respond differently. Helicoils work great in metal; wooden plugs suit wood.
Bolt location and accessibility: Can you easily reach it with a drill and tap? Space constraints often rule out certain options.
Frequency of removal: If you'll need to remove and reinstall the bolt often, helicoils or larger bolts are better than temporary fixes.
Structural importance: A stripped bolt holding a loose panel is different from one holding a load-bearing joint. The stakes change the solution.
Your skill level and tools: Not everyone has a drill press or tap set. Larger bolts require only a wrench.
Before deciding, assess:
The right fix isn't universal—it depends on what you're working with and what's practical in your specific case.
