A stripped screw—one where the head spins uselessly without gripping or turning—is one of the most frustrating obstacles in any repair or assembly project. The good news is that you have several reliable methods to remove it, each suited to different situations and skill levels.
A screw strips when the grooves (called the "drive") wear smooth, or when you apply too much torque with the wrong driver size. This breaks the grip between the tool and the screw head, leaving you spinning in place. The longer you force it, the worse the damage becomes.
Before drilling, try these non-destructive approaches:
Use a larger driver or different drive type. If you have a Phillips head that's stripped, try a slightly larger Phillips or switch to a flathead screwdriver. The larger contact area may catch the remaining grooves. Place firm downward pressure while turning slowly.
Apply rubber for traction. Lay a rubber band or piece of rubber shelf liner over the stripped head and press your driver through it. The rubber fills small gaps and often provides enough grip to turn the screw. This works best for screws that are only partially stripped.
Use pliers or a rubber-gripped tool. Small locking pliers or adjustable wrenches can sometimes grip the screw head directly, especially if it protrudes above the surface. This avoids the drive altogether.
These methods succeed more often on newer screws or those with minimal damage—a worthwhile first attempt before moving to drilling.
If grip methods fail, drilling becomes necessary. This removes the screw entirely, so you'll replace it afterward.
What you'll need:
The process:
Center your drill bit on the screw's head. If the head is very damaged, mark the center with a pencil or awl to guide your bit.
Start at low speed with firm, steady pressure. Let the bit do the work—don't force it. Moving too fast or applying excessive pressure can cause the bit to slip and damage the surrounding material.
Drill straight down through the screw. You're aiming to drill through the shaft (the body of the screw), not just the head. The screw will eventually separate, and the shaft below will come out with the surrounding material, or you'll be able to wiggle it free.
Stop periodically to clear dust and check your progress. If you hit metal shavings, let the drill cool for a moment.
Key variables that affect success:
If a screw breaks off flush with the surface or drilling doesn't fully remove it, a screw extractor may help. These tools have reverse-threaded flutes that bite into the screw as you turn counterclockwise, pulling it out.
Extractors come in sets sized for different screw diameters. You drill a small pilot hole, insert the extractor, and turn counterclockwise with a wrench or socket. They work best on metal screws in metal or wood—less reliable in plastic or composite materials.
Extractors add complexity and cost, so they're most useful if you remove many stripped screws or if the screw is in a location where drilling through it would damage something you want to keep.
Once the screw is out, inspect the hole. If the hole is enlarged or the threads are damaged, you have options:
Your choice depends on the material, the object's durability, and whether appearance matters.
Wear safety glasses—metal shavings and plastic bits can fly. Secure your work firmly so it won't spin or slip. Let the drill cool between extended drilling sessions. Stop immediately if the bit catches or binds; a sudden twist can strain your wrist.
The method that works best for you depends on the screw's size, how deeply it's stuck, what material surrounds it, and whether you have the right tools on hand. Start simple, escalate only if needed, and you'll remove nearly any stripped screw.
